"José Gill, one of the regions' best young talents"
- Tim Atkin
Josés' family farm vines around the village of San Vicente de la Sonsierra and in the hills behind, as far north and as high as you can go in to the Alavesa. They own parcels that are frequently only 0.2 to 0.4 hectares of old vines which have become difficult to manage for Olmaza, the families Bodegas, also located in the village. Jose has taken these vines in hand to produce single terroir wines in a Burgundian style (he spent 2 years in Burgundy and 1 year in the Mosel) that is redefining the attitude to terroir in Rioja today. Jose has already been spotlighted as one of the most exciting new growers in Rioja by both Tim Atkin MW and Luis Gutiérrez, even after just two vintages under his belt.
On our visit in November 2022 Jose made a plan for us to explore in more detail the vineyards and terroirs of his home village of San Vicente. Using Vicky’s Seat Leon, not a vineyard car it must be said, we were given a master class on the terroirs of San Vicente de la Sonsierra and the specific vineyards he uses for his village blend and for his cru wines. The time spent reinforced this region’s clear need to take itself more seriously from a terroir perspective, requiring more people like Jose to champion it and put their money where their mouth is. The village’s vineyards reach from Banos in the south-east to Labastida in the east, the Ebro to the south and the Cantabria in the north. Making it one of the largest of the communes on the left bank of the river. First the Ebro, where the soils are alluvial, sandstone and with pockets of clay and where we are at 400 metres. Moving northwest and on to the northern limits around Ribas at 750 metres and the soils take on different, softer, hue, where seven rivulets have formed separate gullies or valleys running from the Cantabrian mountains down to the flood plains. It is in these valleys that some of the most sought-after vineyards can be found due to the natural terracing and heterogenous soils and bedrock.