Julien and Delphine Zernott discovered this outlier property in 1997 whilst on the search for a home to create for themselves and their nascent family. Julien was, and still works as, a consultant for many of a handful of great names within the Loire Valley, and it was her he met Delphine, a viticulturist and winemaker in her own right. At the time, Larzac was still a ‘backwater’ in France, known more for the fact it housed many mafia families from Corsica and its nature reserves which extend onto the plateau above, than for wine. Of course there are a few names that have brought the region a glimmer of fame, Mas de Daumas being one, Mas Julien another, but in essence the region was still very much Languedoc than a place in its own right.
The house sits on what is known as L’Escalette, the rugged limestone valley that runs from Lodeve, north up to the Larzac plateau and the Grands Causses, and away from the Mediterranean influence that was once the main pilgrimage route for those seeking solace in the Hosts hands. The vineyards sit both here, on these rugged limestone terraces (ancient alluvial forms) and on the south facing slopes of the east west orientated valley that lie to the west of Font del Sauze. In all, there are 20 hectares spread over 50 parcels (terraces) planted in Gobelet formation at between 300 and 375 metres, and in some cases surrounded by the ancient Clapas, walls built from the removal of stones in the main vineyard, harking back to a more ancient way of life.
The viticulture is worked on biodynamic principles, using horse and tractor work when necessary. The altitude, light footed approach to vineyard work and fast draining soils all combine to make wines which differ from those in the basin below, being lighter, mineral and driven by acidity more than alcohol. Grenache and Carignan make up the majority of the plantings, but there are younger plantings of Syrah, and old pockets of Cinsault, being used to great effect in both blends and a on its own. White varieties include Carignan Blanc, Terret Bouchet and Grenache Blanc and Gris.
The winery is newly built and contains the quiet confidence of a couple who know what they want and how to achieve the best from their vines. Everything is geared up to retain freshness, and elegance, and vinification is done in concrete cuves, kept cool buy the fact the cellar is built into the hillside. The ageing depends on the wines, but in order to be an appellation wine, they must spend 12 months in tank.