Domaine Michel Cheveau is a 14 hectare family estate run by Nicolas Cheveau, his brothr Julien and wife Aurelie. The family cellars are on the outskirts of the village of Fuissé, being built only five years ago as a result of the family house getting too cramped (although Trois terroir is still fermented in the two 3000 litre foudres under the kitchen). The vines are located in an around the village, with 14 hectares covering St Veran, Macon, Fuisse, Solutre Davaye and 1er Ouilly Fuisse (Buchot Vers Cras Pouilly and Aux Bouthiers). They are worked by hand, by horse and by tractor, and without use of any agrochemicals. Cheveau is one of the few vingnerons who do not fertilize either, choosing to use sward management to stop soil erosion and keep a balance of nutrients in the soil. His vineyards can always bee spotted for being meticulously looked after, but fizzing with life.
The cellar is a model of perfection. Nicolas is fastidious in ensuring every pipe, tank, valve and tap is spotless at all times, preferring to let the nature in the vineyard allow the best chance of expressing itself. Ferments for the Macon are in individual stainless steel tanks, each one holding a parcel of wine. It is bottled after 6 months on the lees. Trois terroir spends 12 months in foudre, and is a blend of all the vineyards in the estate. Buchot is one of the finest 1er Cru, sitting in the heart of the Fuissé 1er Cru, and the jewel in the crown. This is raised for 12 months in Damy Demi-Muid and a further 12 months on lees in stainless steel. Or Rouge is from Aurelie’s family vineyards in Leynes (they also own St Amour vineyards) and is fermented whole-bunch in stainless steel, where it is kept for 12 months prior to bottling without SO2. The wine is his best effort yet, and absurdly good value, as Nicolas says this is still not his forte yet, being a white wine maker at heart!