24.10.2020

I am not sure how confident anyone feels at the moment, I can’t help recall the sensation of being on a roller coaster (or log flume as I am petrified of roller coasters, even the one that is in fact just a series of ladybirds doing the rounds) able to see the end, but also spying the inevitable last ‘hoorah’ in the form of a stomach churning, physics defying rise and the fall out of the corner of my eye, knowing that it lies between me and the exit gates… Fingers crossed though that the good public will rush out to support the industry and spend all their pent up energy and cash on food, wine and dancing, and take the sting out of it all.

In a sort of ‘sofa surfing’ wine buying exercise that I have rather taken too (I also hate flying!) we have sourced some interesting new wines, albeit from growers we already know. One of which is the really quite delicious and intriguing new Vi Ambre (orange wine for those who don’t speak Catalan) from Cellar de les Aus. Josep wanted to make a wine such as this for a while, but couldn’t find the amphora to age it in so turned to Carles Llach who formed a handful of them for him using the ‘Saulo’ soil found at the bottom of the slope behind the main cellar. With these in place in the buried shipping containers, he felt he had found the right vessel to raise a skin contact Pansa Blanca. The fruit is partially pressed ,partially whole berry, and fermented with all the skins for 2 months. As with all these wines, it is basket pressed and then finished in the amphora before bottling with no additional sulphites. The end result is a gently infused, herbal nosed wine with a touch of mandarin, cherry and wild hop, and a textured, energised palate which craves a little slither of pork based product. The wine is here and ready for sale.

2018 Asarvos Vi Ambre, Cellar de les Aus, Alta Alella, Catalunya.

(for images check out our Instagram feed)

As always with this time of year, the store cupboards are brimming with goodies. I am still on the hunt for the CBW Champagne of choice, but until then (and maybe it will never happen…) we are still enthralled by the quality and style of our three main sparkling wines. I know I sound like Viktor Kiam here (I know, I am showing my age) but I really do enjoy drinking these, and do so regularly at home, so please consider them, and don’t be shy to request a sample, if you have space:

2016 Alta Alella Brut Reserva, Cava

A blend of Pansa Blanca and MAcabeau aged for 30 months on sur latte. The enticing thing about this wine is that as it gets flatter (gently of course) the quality of fruit becomes more abundantly clear. I am consistently writing in my tasting notes when tasting wines to be blended for fizz that this would be far better bottled as a still wine (I once said that to a grower in Champagne who gave me a withering look). Bu the fizz brings the upfront joy and the wine gives the palate something to get excited about. As all these wines, it is organic, and produced with as little SO2 as possible.

NV X-Bulles Vincent Caille, Monnieres Saint Fiacre, Loire

Vincent as many of you will know is the reluctant (other) saint of Monnieres, and producer of to my palate the singularly finest cru wine of this village (for arguments I refer you to his 2012!). Like all great growers, Vincent has his serious side, and his fun side, and this blend of Chardonnay and Grolleau (giving it a slightly rose petal hue) makes for delicious drinking. A touch of rhubarb and custard, layers of citrus fruit and a long and ever so slightly brioche tinged finish slightly take one by surprise. New livery makes it look super smart too, always good when one is trying to impress the neighbors.

NV Cremant de Bourgogne, Domaine Deliance

When I think back to we first shipped this wine in 2010, it really was an icon of the 50s (label wise that is) with a silvery label and mauve (yep, look that one up too) band across it. But of course we don’t judge books here, and the wine inside was and still is stunning. Lionel takes extra care to age the wines for longer on the lees and is upto 24 months sur latte. He is located in the village of Dracy le Fort up an undefinable lane, where he crafts the most amazing fizzy wines in his ancient Grenier. Thankfully (sorry if I sound lookist) the label is updated, and a touch of Aligote has been added to give a pep to the mid palate freshness, and this is quite possibly all the Champagne-a-like fizz one would need.

Finally if you are in need f something to intrigue the palate further, I drank a bottle of Tresaille (Tresallier) from Domaine des Berioles in Saint Pourcain, and their delicious Pinot Noir, the other day and frankly both have come round to be generous, serious, volcanic influenced wines of real character. This is a strange nether region just north of Vichy on the Haut Loire, but the wines can be serious, with a strong identity. If you haven’t tried either of these, and have a need for them in your life, please do get in touch.

Hope to see many of you during advent, and fingers crossed that last hurrah on the Flume is in fact a champagne (or fizzy-wine) fountain!

Ben, on behalf of us all at CB towers.